Chandni Chowk – Delhi Street Food

I'm touring the Chandni Chowk market with Delhi food blogger, Mister Tikku, aka Gurpreet Singh Tikku. 


Chandni Chowk dates back to the Mughal era. Many of the vendors in the seemingly endless market can claim to be the fifth, sixth, or seventh generation to man the family shop.  Mister Tikku takes me to one such august establishment, Chaina Ram, established in 1901 and famous for its gujiya, a must-have sweet during the Holi festival of colors.

Chaina Ram is not an establishment to sit on its laurels. The puri is being fried to golden perfection in pure ghee right at the entrance to the shop, where passersby can gauge the quality of the food for themselves without having to consult a guide book.

Keen to show me the indigenous inspiration for Farzi’s Raj Kachori, Mister Tikku orders both puri and kachori for breakfast.

Kachori for breakfast in Delhi's Chandni Chowk market.

Kachori for breakfast in Delhi's Chandni Chowk market.

The tour took a decided turn toward the sweet. First, sweet lassi, a rich, thick yogurt drink. Then falooda, another sweet drink, this one made with noodles and crushed ice. Followed in rapid succession by phirni, an Indian rice pudding with pistachios, barfi, a milk pudding condensed to the consistency of chocolate bark, and halwa, sesame seeds and sugar ground to the texture of fudge. And, something I’m pretty sure is not a traditional Indian dish – the fruit sandwich at Jain’s Coffee House.